The Future of Mixology
Written by Danny Ronen
Photos by Jenn Farrington

• Erik Adkins, Bar Manager of San Francisco’s Heaven’s Dog, insists that the bar utilize several types of ice, each appropriate for its own family of cocktails: Kold-Draft is their standard ice, ice spears (1½-inch rectangles about 5 inches long) for Collins drinks and hand-cut cubes, which snugly fit into a rocks glass. |
Every year in the Nevada desert, a group of food
and beverage industry folk descend upon the Las
Vegas Convention Center to schmooze and share
information at the Nightclub & Bar Convention and
Trade Show, known colloquially as the Vegas Bar Show.
While entrepreneurs are present to sell their wares,
many people on the bar service side of the industry use
this event not as a hunt for the newest ID-verification
device or VIP wristband printer, but rather as a way to
connect with others in their field. One of the seminars
held at this year’s Bar Show was perfect for bartenders:
"The Future of Mixology."
Moderated by Livio Lauro, of Nevada Southern Wine
& Spirits and national head of the United States Bartenders'
Guild, the panel consists of four industry superstars:
Tony Abou-Ganim, Bridget Albert, "Bobby G"
Gleason and Francesco Lafranconi. If anyone can get a
crowd of bartenders to listen attentively, it’s these folks,
each of whom has decades of bartending and management
experience under their belts.
What would these folks consider the future of mixology?
Let’s find out, then show you where these ideas are
already being implemented. The future is now!

• Flowers and flavored rims are nothing new to the world of garnishes, but Adam Seger of Chicago’s Nacional 27 makes it a point to create an elaborate, thoughtful and appropriate garnish for a cocktail he created for the Domaine de Canton competition finals, which called for "tropical sophistication."
• Drops of cacao oil in Daniel Hyatt’s cocktail at The Alembic in San Francisco can be described as a garnish; the inventive item adds flavor and texture, as the drops solidify into small edible spheres.
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Juiced Up
The “fresh bar” is here! The use of fresh fruit and
juices is a quick and easy discussion, as the panel considers
this agenda item already accomplished. Anyone
who has been to a bar outside of a metropolitan center
knows this is not necessarily the case everywhere, but
in order to speak specifically to this crowd, the panel
chooses to move on to other topics.
The Next Ice Age
Is ice next? The panel members declare almost simultaneously
that focusing on ice is the next big thing.
Francesco Lafranconi says that the future will not just
be the cube itself, but the block and pick, to help venues
distinguish themselves. Bridget Albert also makes a
good point that not everyone can afford
the newer ice machines such as
Kold-Draft; she recommends
that bartenders learn how
to best use what they already
have. Sometimes
it’s better to perfect the
use of the technology
currently available to
your venue.
Some establishments have already forged ahead.
Heaven’s Dog in San Francsico’s SOMA neighborhood
not only has a Kold-Draft ice machine, but also forms its
own ice spears, cuts cubes by hand for rocks drinks and
even has Lewis ice bags for crushing ice. It seems like
someone in the future must enjoy a good Julep.
Garnish, Don’t Tarnish
Are garnishes going to change? Livio Lauro's first
comment is pointed directly at the crowd: U.S. bartenders
can’t seem to win the World Cup! The panel agrees
that there is a lack of attention to detail in the U.S.
bartending community, whereas if you go into a proper
bar in a small neighborhood in Italy, you will still get a
beautiful garnish.

• Kevin Diedrich of Michael Mina’s Bourbon
Steak in DC demonstrates the natural segue from garnish to flavor to flair. Kevin flames rosemary for a cocktail, which amplifies the aroma and beautifies the drink; it also catches the attention of other patrons, potentially inspiring more orders.
• San Francisco architect Jim Maxwell and Proper Potion Consulting’s Jonny Raglin worked together to design perforated stainless steel drainage and rinsing stations all along the length of the bar at Dosa Fillmore and at Oakland’s new Sidebar. Aesthetically pleasing and effi cient drainage and glassware cleaning.
• The concept of mise-en-place can include all cocktail ingredients, even tinctures. Daniel Shoemaker of Portland’s Teardrop Lounge built a Bitters & Tinctures display that houses his dozens of homemade concoctions, many rarely seen in use elsewhere.
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It’s not for lack for garnishes, however; almost every
bar has at least one garnish tray, maybe more. Tony
Abou-Ganim explains that he started ordering Gibsons
instead of Martinis because he didn’t want the "heat
missile" of an olive that had been sitting out in the garnish
tray since 10 a.m.
Bobby G also makes a good point: Bartenders should
focus on making the garnish in front of the customer,
even if it’s something as simple as using a channel knife
to carve citrus peel for a specific cocktail. Bridget Albert
also comments that in cocktail competitions, judging
panels often include chefs; they always love the cocktails,
but they want to see appropriate garnishes.
One example of appropriate garnishing comes from
Chicago’s Adam Seger at Nacional 27, known for the
veritable garden of fruits, vegetables and herbs he keeps
at the bar for both cocktail creation and garnishes. Another
practitioner, Daniel Hyatt at The Alembic in San Francisco, is sometimes minimalist
but always keeps a connection to the
cocktail itself—like the bright, aromatic
slice of radish in his Promissory
Note cocktail.
Thirty-Seven Pieces of Flair
Where is flair today and where is
its future? This topic was also
quickly discussed, Bobby G
clarifying that the purpose of
flair is to bring repeat orders,
repeat customers and wordof-
mouth recommendations.
At the same time, however, we
have advanced from the days of
form-before-function flair and
now must make a conscious
effort to make great cocktails
while using flair.
Building Smarter Bars
Are working stations going
to change? From refrigerated
garnish drawers at Salvatore
at Fifty in London’s St. James,
to Varnish in Los Angeles,
where almost the entire bar
counter consists of drainage,
it seems that bars around the world
are getting smarter and focusing on
function—but never forgetting the
importance of form. Bridget Albert
comments that if a venue puts as
much effort into the bar space as
one normally would into the kitchen,
the payoff is enormous.
The entire goal is for the bartender
to be able to execute cocktails
in the best and most efficient way
possible. If bartenders can
easily reach ingredients
and tools, they can more
quickly move on to the next
drink, satisfying customers,
increasing both tips
and covers for the evening—
everyone’s happy!
As the seminar panel
states, "Mise-en-place and
product knowledge along
with quality consistency
are the name of the game
for a successful beverage
program!"
Back to the Future, Again
What about bitters and
tinctures? This topic was
not part of the seminar but
is something that should always be
a part of any discussion regarding
the future of mixology. The amusing
thing is that bitters are not even remotely
a new concept — the original
definition of a cocktail is spirit, bitters,
water and sugar — but the use
of and creation of bitters has seen an
amazingly sweet comeback.
Bars and mixologists around
the country are making their own
extracts and ingredients to create
more intricate flavors, as well as to
educate their customers. From Teardrop
Lounge in Portland, Oregon,
to Drink in Boston, bartenders and
cocktail enthusiasts alike are pushing the envelope of cocktail components
by using multitudes of different
bitters, including those made
in-house.
The seminar’s final presentation
slides included these two quotes:
It’s all about knowledge: The more
you know, the more you sell and the
more engaged your guest will be.
It’s all about the details: A personal
touch goes a long way.
In 2009, we now have those who
are truly looking to educate themselves
as well as their patrons,
bringing back bitters that had not
existed since the time of the legendary
Jerry Thomas, as well as other
flavors, syrups and elixirs whose
recipes had been thought lost. This
resurgence of interest in the field,
added to the topics discussed by
the esteemed panel at the Vegas Bar
Show, can mean only one thing: The
future is now!
The Future of Mixology - The Tasting Panel Magazine - May 2009 |
Jenn Farrington Studios image library for all photos from The Future of Mixology:
Heaven's Dog
The Alembic
Nacional 27
Michael Mina's Bourbon Steak / Kevin Diedrich
Dosa Fillmore / Sidebar
Teardrop Lounge
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